EVALUATION OF AN ESP TEXTBOOK FOR THE STUDENTS OF FASHION DESIGN

Evaluation is a crucial step in the process of enhancing the quality of educational materials through the design of new content. The evaluation of textbooks in English Language Teaching can be conducted using a variety of techniques. Adapted from Cunningsworth and Kusel (1991) and Skierso (1991), this study utilized checklist instruments to determine whether or not a textbook is appropriate for use. This study provides an overview of ELT textbook evaluation, with a particular emphasis on the use of a checklist. It aimed to assess the suitability of a specific textbook for an ESP course for fashion design students. According to the findings of this study, 90 percent of respondents agree this book is excellent based on its general attributes and 93 percent agree based on its learning and teaching content. The presentation above suggests that this book can be used for ESP courses by fashion design students. However, the book does not come without any weaknesses, which include the absence of a book for teachers and the absence of pair and group exercises.


Introduction
English as a global language plays a vital role in education and is therefore a required subject in numerous nations worldwide. In Indonesia, English is the only mandatory foreign language subjects starting secondary school until the university level (Fithriani, 2017). In addition to education, English is an indispensable language in any other fields such as technology, commerce, and industry (Fithriani, 2018). Several researchers (Shin, 2016;Bury & Oka, 2017) have highlighted the significance of English in the industrial field. The study showed that English has a significant role to gain employment in industrial sector. In addition, English courses are taught in fashion design major as part of the hospitality industry and tourism undergraduate degrees in Asian regions such as Japan and South Korea.
English is required for fashion design students in Indonesia. Based on a need analysis during preliminary study, it was determined that fashion design students require English as a learning medium because the majority of fashion design materials are written in English or employ English vocabulary. Moreover, when designing garments, fashion design students utilize a computer whose instructions are predominantly written in English. In addition to this English knowledge requirements to understand the instructions, the students involved in the preliminary study also claimed that English is necessary for their future career. The need to fulfil what the students think necessary for them in learning English is in accordance with what Robinett et al.'s (1988) opinion stating that ESP is a language teaching and learning method where all content and method provisions are based on the learner's desire to learn. One important aspect that help meet students' expectation in learning English is teacher's selection of textbooks to be used in their classes.
In academic settings, textbooks are necessary for the success of English both the teaching and learning processes, particularly in an ESP course. A textbook is crucial in providing students with access to knowledge. They are also the primary determinants of the learners' knowledge. As McGrath (2002) highlights, course books typically dictate what is taught, how it is taught, and, to some extent, how and what students learn. Students can access various types of disciplinary knowledge via textbooks (Blanchfield & Browne, 2014). Evaluation should be monitored to ensure the suitability of selected textbooks. Evaluation is widely recognized as the key to enhancing educational achievement. Numerous researchers, Educational policymakers and administrators have been the focus of Stake et al. (1991), and Gifford and O Connor's (1992) research into the possibility of shifts in evaluation techniques for curriculum innovation. In addition, The need for a checklist was driven by the construct domain of the criteria and the consistency of the scores generated by its items (Mukundan et al., 2011). To achieve this objective, a checklist for evaluating textbooks was developed based on several well-established instruments. Examining its strengths and weaknesses is required for evaluation.
In light of the significance of evaluation, the objective of this research was to evaluate the strengths and weaknesses of a widely used ESP textbook for Fashion Design. It is hoped that the outcomes of this research will be useful to ESP instructors in determining if the evaluated book is suitable as a key text for the Fashion Design ESP course. The following research questions serve as the basis for this study: 1. Is the evaluated textbook suitable for use as key materials in the ESP course for the student of fashion design? 2. What are the strengths and weaknesses of the evaluated textbook?

English Textbook Evaluation
Textbooks are crucial for information transfer and helping teachers carry out their duties in any educational context. Particularly in language teaching and learning, textbooks play a crucial role and are considered the second most important factor in the second/foreign language classroom after the teacher (Hussin, Nimehchisalem, & Kalajahi, 2015;Riazi, 2003). In a similar vein, Hutchinson and Torres (1994), language teaching and learning is insufficient without a relevant textbook. Regarding the relevance of a textbook to be used in a particular language classroom, some methods might be used to assess the selected educational materials, one of which is textbook evaluation.
Evaluation is a dynamic process that is useful for determining the suitability and adequacy of existing practices, which helps the development of innovations and the modification of the educational context (Mohammadi & Abdi, 2014;Rea-Dickens & Germaine, 1992). The review of textbooks is helpful to those who create language courses' curricula and supplementary materials since it prompts them to think about important concerns. In addition, evaluation studies are essential for re-evaluating the weak spots of existing materials and developing better quality materials. Teachers' ideas and suggestions should be considered during the evaluation process because they are the direct users of course books and typically have good insights into course book usage and classroom dynamics.
The situation in language teaching-learning must be based on the congruence between student learning and intended outcomes, which is not only based on the course objectives, but also on the needs of the learners. Particularly with the student-centred approach, textbooks should be seen as instruments that can assist students reach targets and objectives that have already been set based on their needs. Students are expected to use the language as professionals in that field in the future, so this is crucial (Ridwan, Fithriani, Fransiska, & Batubara, 2021).
To make sure the textbook is suitable for the student, evaluation is needed. Pre-use, in-use, and post-use assessments are the three types of textbook evaluation (Cunningsworth ,1995) To start, a textbook's future performance or potential is evaluated by pre-use or predictive evaluations to see if it is aligned with curricular goals. Since predictive evaluation involves subjective judgements, it tends to be difficult to conduct individually. Thus, pre-use evaluation is often done in group. Second, in-use evaluation is usually done by focussing partially on the global needs of the course. For example, if the course is used as a transition for students of lower proficiency level to a more advanced one, the ease of the transition from the textbooks for each level needs to reviewed. Third, post-use or retrospective evaluation is believed to be the most optimal method of textbook evaluation (Ellis, 1997;Tomlinson, 2012). Retrospective evaluation focuses on evaluating the strengths and weaknesses of a textbook after it has been used in a specific institution or setting (Ellis, 1997). This method of evaluation, thus will inform teachers what important parts that should be included and be revised or modified when using it in their classes in the future.

Checklist for Textbook Evaluation Criteria
A checklist is a useful instrument for evaluating a textbook., McGrath (2002) and Mukundan (2011) state that checklist is a useful tool that can be used in selecting, adapting, or evaluating the textbook. A plethora of studies have been conducted in light of textbook evaluation, employing various methods and percepation. Cunningsworth (1984) and Richard, (2006) recommend using a series of checklists to assess the textbook. Utilizing a standardized checklist can make the evaluation process more effective, accurate, and trustworthy. As a result, researchers have attempted to develop various criteria for a standardized textbook evaluation checklist. As for the evaluation of textbooks, Both Cunningsworth (1984) and Skierso (1991) look at the same kinds of things, including the physical characteristics of textbooks like their goals, methodology, layout, and organization, and other criteria that are present in most checklists like how the textbook presents English skills (speaking, listening, etc.), subskills (grammar, vocabulary, etc.), and functions.
A slightly different focus is suggested by Mukundan, Hajimohammadi, and Nimehchisalem (2011) by dividing the list of a valid, reliable, and practical checklist into two categories: general characteristics and learning-teaching content. There are five main types of components: how well they fit in with the course outline and curriculum, how they are taught, how well they fit the needs of the students, how physically useful they are, and what Evaluation of an ESP Textbook for the Students of Fashion Design, Roslina Hasibuan, Rahmah Fithriani https://jurnal.uisu.ac.id/index.php/languageliteracy 290 Nationally Accredited SINTA 3, and indexed in DOAJ and Copernicus other resources are available. Second, there are general requirements, which include hearing, speaking, reading, writing, vocabulary, grammar, pronunciation, and exercises. Third, there are specific criteria, which include task quality, cultural sensitivity, and linguistic and situational realism. A checklist must be consistent with the aim and context of the evaluation, taking into account several factors such as the purpose and needs of the students. A checklist should be inexpensive and simple to use. Cunningsworth (1984) emphasizes the significance of limiting the number of criteria or questions used in the evaluation. It is done to maintain proportion and avoid having too many details that can cause confusion during the evaluation process.

English Textbooks Evaluation for ESP Courses
Research into English for Specific Purposes (ESP) has come a long way since its inception in the 1980s, when it first began to make an impact on the teaching and learning of English as a second or foreign language for specific disciplines. (Swales, 1988(Swales, , 2011. (Nguyen &Nguyen, 2017 andRamirez, 2015), among others, highlight the importance of studying ESP from the perspective of how well it serves the needs of students in various fields, including globalization, commerce, communications, the economy, and education. Finding out what students require is associated with the beginning of outcome-and processfocused instruction in ESP (Nunan 1999(Nunan , 2003. ESP programs are created to cater to the needs of the students both now and in the future (Nguyen & Nguyen 2017). Teachers' insights about the diversity of their students' learning preferences, needs, and subject matter, as well as the best practices for integrating English language instruction, are therefore incorporated. Some educators have rethought their pedagogical tenets in light of the advent of ESP (Richards 2006). English instructors should carefully evaluate texts for relevance and accuracy.
Course textbooks are very meaningful for teaching students how to communicate in the language of their field. Thus, developing materials for ESP classes needs a dialogue between language content, learning needs, and course content (Bocanegra-Valle, 2010). With the proliferation of published textbooks on ESP, ESP researchers and practitioners have been focusing their attention to assess the relevance and suitability of the textbooks with the purposes of the course where the textbook are used. Consequently, a plethora of studies on ESP focus on how well a textbook meets the needs of learners (Nguyen & Nguyen, 2017;Ramirez, 2015) through various methods, one of is textbook evaluation. Textbook evaluation is much implemented due to its clarity in terms of procedures in assessing a textbook, thus it could be done by the course teachers themselves.
Assessing teaching and learning resources to bring into classrooms are among the main responsibilities of a language teacher. To ensure that the resources are appropriate for achieving a course's aims and objectives, teachers must be well-equipped with systematic criteria to assist them in evaluating the many available aspects and making decisions regarding the evaluation of instructional materials to be used in their ESP classes (Canado, et al., 2015). This decision regarding the textbooks is especially crucial for an ESP course, as students learn the words and phrases that are most often written or spoken in a certain field.
Regarding its purpose, the evaluation of ESP course materials becomes obligatory in accordance with established norms and standards. There are six factors to consider when selecting and evaluating materials for ESP classes: assisting learners in understanding the what, why, and how of the target language setting; assisting learners in improving language skills; supporting learners in using language skills actively; encouraging the incidental learning of target language skills; assisting learners in developing a positive emotional response to support the development of target language skills; and supporting non-specialist instructors (Anthony, 2018).

Research Method
The data come from a single textbook from an ESP course in English for Fashion Design. This textbook is ideal for anyone who works in the fashion industry and needs to communicate in English on a daily basis. This book can help learners understand more about vocabulary and other fashion-related skills; it is also important in the fashion world.
The textbook entitled "English for the Fashion Industry" was written by Marry E Ward in 2012 and published by Oxford University Press. This book also included a CD Room. This book is divided into eight chapters and has a total of 98 pages. The cover layout depicts a variety of jobs in the fashion industry. Each unit was designed with the ESP pupils' needs and interests in mind. Learners can also find information on garment design and promotions. Each unit concludes with an exercise and a quiz, and each unit begins with an introduction to the main topic. Practical exercises, listening parts, industry-specific texts, as well as photos and illustrations, all help students learn new words and phrases. Every unit concludes with the output text, followed by reflection and discussion questions. Figure 1 depicts the entire contents of the book. The analyzing frameworks of this book is by using evaluation criteria by checklist adapted from an expert's (Byrd, 2001) works. The criteria of evaluative checklists were Evaluation of an ESP Textbook for the Students of Fashion Design, Roslina Hasibuan, Rahmah Fithriani https://jurnal.uisu.ac.id/index.php/languageliteracy 292 Nationally Accredited SINTA 3, and indexed in DOAJ and Copernicus selected based on the context of the learning-teaching and the particular needs of the teacher and learner. In the checklist evaluation there are two stages. The first phase is general attributes containing purpose, methodology, layout, and organization (Cunningsworth, 1984;Skierso, 1991) and the second phase is learning teaching content including the way language skills (speaking, listening, etc.), subskills (grammar, vocabulary, etc.), and functions are provided in the textbook (Zabawa, 2001;Cunningsworth, 1984;). Figure 2 details the criteria for textbook evaluation in this study.

Figure 2. Checklists evaluation criteria for data analysis
The analysis of the available checklists revealed that even though they were made in different parts of the world for different learning and teaching situations and purposes, they share similar evaluation criteria. Based on the aforementioned criteria, a checklist must have a relationship with the surface of the students who will be using this book, or at least be organized by considering multiple dimensions of students' age, need, and interest (Byrd, 2001;Skierso, 1991). The checklist included two significant sections, including general characteristics and learning-teaching content.
To meet data analysis triangulation, each of the researchers individually evaluated the textbook using a point system ranging from 0 to 4 with the descriptors 0 for completely lacking and 4 for excellent and later consult the results. In this initial phase, the focus of assessments was general characteristics. After obtaining the results, the learning and instruction content was evaluated, and the final result was calculated. The final step involved calculating the reliability of the checklist evaluation. The trustworthiness was based on a total summation of general characteristics and instructional learning content. See appendix for the strengths and weaknesses of the textbook in relation to the next step initial review (Anthony, 2018).

The textbook Suitability
The checklist results were assessed to address the first research question about the evaluated textbook's suitability for usage in an ESP course for fashion design students. Using Language Literacy: Journal of Linguistics, Literature, and Language Teaching Volume 6, Number 2, pp: 287-298, December 2022 e- ISSN: 2580-9962 | p-ISSN: 2580 https://jurnal.uisu.ac.id/index.php/languageliteracy 293 Nationally Accredited SINTA 3, and indexed in DOAJ and Copernicus the information gathered, the checklist contains two essential components, the first comprises general characteristics, while the second learning and teaching material.

Figure 3. Result of General Attributes
In terms of general characteristics, Figure 3 shows that the textbook is categorized as 'excellent,' which indicates its suitability for the course. This textbook is appropriate for use in the ESP course for the fashion design students because the materials are applicable to the target language environment and offer a variety of exercises that meet the demands of learners, require specialized knowledge, and provide complete coverage of target language skills. In details, this textbook meets the criteria such as 'the level of material matches of the learner, the units and exercises are clearly and logically order, the materials provide a variety of exercises that address learners needs, and the level of material matches that of the learner.' Regarding the detailed explanation of its suitability, these results echo those of the criteria proposed by Mukundan, Hajimohammadi, and Nimehchisalem (2011), who developed the checklist for textbook evaluation focusing on the clarity and inclusiveness. Similarly, in terms of learning and teaching content, which includes general aspects (task quality, cultural sensitivity, and linguistic and situational realism), listening, speaking, reading, writing, vocabulary, grammar, pronunciation, and exercises, the data analysis reveals that the textbook is also suitable for Fashion design course with 'excellent' categorization (look at Figure 4 for  checklists into two general categories, including general attributes and learning-teaching content, the evaluation checklist for the textbook is reliable. Overall, the result of the trustworthy evaluation checklist was 91.5%, indicating that the quality of this textbook was exceptional.

The Strengths and Weaknesses of the Evaluated Textbook
To answer the second research question concerning the strengths and weaknesses of the evaluated textbook, data from initial review were collected (Anthony, 2018) in addition to the checklist. The interviews were audio recorded and transcribed verbatim. The transcripts were then analyzed to identify the strengths and weaknesses of the evaluated textbook. The results reveal a number of weaknesses, including the absence or unavailability of a teacher's manual, the uninteresting layout of the book, its prohibitively high cost, and the absence of group exercises. Some of the exercises in the textbook are also regarded to be lack of variety in terms of pair and group work, however the participants agree that they could easily be modified.
Meanwhile in terms of its strength, the materials of this textbook are identified to be relevant to the requirements of the target audience, the students of Fashion Design major. This textbook is relevant for the intended audience of fashion design students because it discusses the subskills required for the field. In addition, the materials include audio/video, transcripts, and/or answer keys, as well as a table of contents, an index, and a list of references. These aspects are consistent with the role of initial review of materials proposed by Anthony (2018).

Conclusion
This study, published by Oxford University Press in 2012 seeks to assess the suitability of English for the Fashion Industry for use as a core text in ESP courses for fashion design students. Using checklist instruments as the analytic framework, this study concludes that the evaluated textbook is 'excellent' for the intended course because the included materials are pertinent to the required target language. This textbook has both strengths and weaknesses, as detailed in the findings and discussion section, just like any other educational document.